Lekondo's
Ontology of Fashion Aesthetics

34 aesthetics

Clothing is expression without explanation. It influences how you're seen and how you see yourself. Patterns of taste, mood, discipline, excess, and restraint repeat across time and culture. This is our guide to making that language visible.

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Glam Rock

Definition

Glam rock is a fashion aesthetic built around theatrical excess, androgynous silhouettes, and metallic fabrics, originating in the British rock scene of the early 1970s. David Bowie, Marc Bolan of T. Rex, and Roxy Music were its primary architects. Core garments include sequined jumpsuits, platform boots, satin trousers, velvet jackets, and bodysuits in gold, silver, and jewel tones. The aesthetic rejected gender binaries in popular music fashion, placing men in makeup, glitter, and form-fitting silhouettes previously associated with women's clothing. Bowie's Ziggy Stardust persona (1972-1973) demonstrated that stage costume could function as a complete identity system. The look migrated from concert stages to street fashion and has been revived repeatedly, notably by Alessandro Michele's Gucci (2015-2022) and Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent (2012-2016).

Visual Grammar

Silhouette

  • fitted and flared simultaneously
  • high-waisted trousers with dramatic flare
  • tight tops with volume at extremities
  • platform everything
  • jumpsuits and bodysuits

Materials

  • velvet (crushed, burnout, stretch)
  • lamé and metallic fabrics
  • sequins and rhinestones
  • satin and silk
  • patent leather
  • lurex knits
  • feathers and marabou

Construction

  • theatrical tailoring
  • bold shoulders
  • deep V-necks
  • flared sleeves and cuffs
  • exposed zippers as decoration

Colors

  • metallics (gold, silver, bronze)
  • jewel tones (emerald, sapphire, ruby)
  • electric blue and purple
  • hot pink and fuchsia
  • black as foundation
  • glitter on everything

Footwear

  • platform boots (essential)
  • platform heels
  • metallic boots
  • patent leather platforms
  • chunky heels

Body Logic

Glam rock styling treats the body as a performance surface. Platform boots add several inches of height and alter gait, making movement inherently theatrical. Androgynous styling blurs gender lines through fitted silhouettes, deep V-necklines, and form-fitting jumpsuits worn across genders. Makeup functions as a garment in itself, with painted designs (such as Bowie's lightning bolt) serving as recognizable visual signatures. The overall effect requires commitment: the garments are conspicuous by design and do not accommodate understated or casual presentation.

Exemplars

  • David Bowie as Ziggy Stardust1972-1973Bowie performed as Ziggy Stardust in jumpsuits, platform boots, and the iconic lightning-bolt face paint designed by makeup artist Pierre La Roche. The persona demonstrated that a constructed stage character could achieve recognition independent of the musician behind it.
  • Marc Bolan / T. RexBolan wore feather boas, glitter, and satin on stage and in promotional appearances. His approach to glam emphasized sensuality and playfulness, providing a softer counterpart to Bowie's more theatrical and conceptual presentation.
  • Gucci by Alessandro Michele2015-2022Michele's seven-year tenure at Gucci produced maximalist, gender-fluid collections featuring glitter, floral suits, and platform loafers. The line brought glam rock references to luxury fashion runways and red carpets throughout the late 2010s.
  • Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane2012-2016Slimane's collections drew extensively from 1970s rock photography, featuring skinny silhouettes, leather jackets, and metallic fabrics. The runway presentations closely echoed the visual language of the original glam rock era.

Timeline

  • 1971-1975David Bowie, Marc Bolan, and Roxy Music established the aesthetic vocabulary. Platform boots and glitter migrated from concert stages to street fashion as fans adopted the performers' visual codes for everyday wear.
  • 1980sGlam metal and hair metal bands pushed the aesthetic into harder territory, incorporating spandex, teased hair, and leather. The theatrical element persisted, but the androgyny of the original glam rock era narrowed into a more conventionally masculine presentation.
  • 1990s-2000sGrunge and minimalism displaced glam rock from mainstream fashion. Club culture preserved glam elements in nightlife settings, but the aesthetic retreated to subcultural status during this period.
  • 2010sSaint Laurent under Hedi Slimane and Gucci under Alessandro Michele brought glam rock back to the runway from different angles. Slimane drew on 1970s rock photography for his skinny, leather-heavy silhouettes, while Michele drew on maximalist excess with glitter, embroidery, and gender-fluid styling.
  • 2020sPost-pandemic fashion shifted toward maximalism. Maneskin and Harry Styles brought theatrical menswear to mainstream pop audiences, wearing sequined jumpsuits, feather boas, and painted nails in arenas and on magazine covers.

Brands

  • Saint Laurent
  • Gucci
  • Celine (under Slimane)
  • Balmain
  • Versace
  • Rick Owens (darkwave glam)
  • The Vampire's Wife
  • The Kooples
  • AllSaints

References

  • Glam rock fashion history and 1970s style documentation
  • Auslander, Philip. Performing Glam Rock: Gender and Theatricality in Popular Music. University of Michigan Press, 2006.
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